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All animals are welcome to add battle moves!

CATS Edit

Back Kick Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent's distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking all weight on your front paws.
Belly Rake A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws against the soft flesh of the opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back into control.
Front Paw Strike Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the face or body of your opponent.
Leap-And-Hold Ideal for a small cat facing a larger opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of the opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. Watch for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Partner Fighting Warriors who have trained and fought together will often fall instinctively into a defensive position, each protecting the other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play Dead Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in attacking position.
Teeth Grip Target your opponent's extremities- the legs, tail, scruff or ears- and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.
Upright Lock Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so it takes great strength and speed.
Drop-And-Kick An effective counter to the upright lock. When the opponent positions themselves to perform the upright lock, quickly position yourself under their raised paws and exposed belly and kick with back legs. Move fast and recover quickly, as this move can be risky.
Half Turn Belly-Rake Turn onto your side, slip under the opponent's belly, rake it with your claws, then swiftly turn back onto all fours out from under your opponent.
Reverse Reared Strike An advanced move utilizing the front paw strike, upright lock, back kick with a powerful jump. Kick upwards with the back legs, spin round of forepaws and leap backwards, rear up and rake opponent with front paws.

Dig Partnership move. More than one cat tackle one enemy and dig their claws as far in as possible. Tear back to leave big scratches.

One-Move Windpipe and/or Major Artery Tear An advanced move in which you leap onto their back, sink your teeth into their neck, and lash your head around violently. Make sure your teeth penetrate enough to get down to the bone, before lashing away, tearing away flesh and tearing away the windpipe, and if not, exposing it. This move can also be used if tackled by simply lifting your head up and sinking your teeth into the front of their neck. This is an easier way to lacerate the windpipe, in fact.

DOGS Edit

Neck scruff knock-When your fighting a small dog or strong dog, go for the scruff, knock them down with your paws and grab their scruff, By using this you can easily throw them off. 

Throat nip-When your in a tight position of being pinned lash out your muzzle and give a nip to the throat

Shoulder-When your opponent is weak and head down, Slam your shoulders into their jaw using this can dislocate it.

Frontal Drop- An advanced move utilizing the dogs whole body. Rear up onto your back legs then trick them into attacking your belly. As soon as they dash in, drop down with your dead weight and muzzle pointing towards the attackers neck with a gape.

Rip and Kill- A move that if done correctly, will kill the opponent immediately. Tackle the enemy so their stomach faces up and use your fangs to dig into their throat or stomach. Rip it out and continue on your way. It takes a very strong and fast dog to do this move.

Partnership Kill- Two or more dogs are needed to do this move, they both need to be strong and healthy. Surround the enemy, one dog at each end. Latch onto the opponent's flesh and take them down.

Ear Tear- Grab hold of the opponent's ear and grip the soft flesh with your teeth. Smaller dogs will not only be unreachable by the opponent but the opponent's ear may tear and send them away yelping or distract them.

Tackle- Leap onto your enemy's back and use your weight to push them down. This method will leave them stuck in one position, and is better than tackling them from the front because they are unable to scratch or bite you. Hold them down hard, or else they can dash out from under you

Seismic Slam- Take your enemy by surprise. Come in from the side and fight them with your teeth to distract them. Lock paws with them and bring your weight down on them, making sure you're on top

Fold Grab- Use your teeth to grab hold of any skin flaps or fat on your opponent. Pull them onto the ground and use your paws to defend yourself. Can be done with a partner.

Sense Destroyer- Aim your paws for the opponent's eyes, nose, or tongue. Scratch them hard, particularly in the eyes to blind them and throw them off. If you aim for the tongue and it doesn't work, at least they got your paw right in the mouth, just make sure you take it out before they bite your paw.

Ram- Hit your opponent with your skull in the stomach and slam them against a hard surface until they go limp

Agility- Jumping back and forth, kicking, scratching, biting, and possibly screaming for help until your opponent is defeated.

Ball- Though seems to be the "coward's way out", it is a very useful move. Curl up in a fetal position so that your spine is curved up. If the enemy wounds you enough in this position, explode out to fight them or make quick moves at them.

Still- Similar to play dead, but not necessarily. Freeze against a solid object and try to blend in. Take enemies by surprise by leaping at them when they think they're safe, or wait for them to leave.

Crush- For large canines only, don't just assume that the opponent is smaller than you unless they're a cat, kit, pup, or elder. (if they have an OC page or something you can find out easily) If something jumps onto your back, roll around on it and crush it. You can also jump on it (be careful how you phrase it or you may get suspended) and get the same results.

Spin-Spin around very, very quickly in a circle. The enemy cannot hurt you but you can hurt them by running into them.

Intense Eye Blinding /w Effect- This move is more for the advanced battling techniques. It requires sand and fast moves. Circle around your opponent directly, striking the sand into their eyes. Allow it to burn for 5 seconds and see your opponents reaction. If they keep attacking, charge away from them and kick the sand fairly far away and directly into their eyes, doubling the amount. If your opponent does not act this way, then good! That means you can rake your claw across their eyes, blinding them greatly. The sand will add onto their eye scratches, making it sting more. Do this continuously until they admit defeat, or if you are more on the no mercy side, do it until your opponent falls.

One-Move Windpipe and/or Major Artery Tear An advanced move in which you leap onto their back, sink your teeth into their neck, and lash your head around violently. Make sure your teeth penetrate enough to get down to the bone, before lashing away, tearing away flesh and tearing away the windpipe, and if not, exposing it. This move can also be used if tackled by simply lifting your head up and sinking your teeth into the front of their neck. This is an easier way to lacerate the windpipe, in fact.

RABBITS Edit

Spinal Buff- Very easy move that involves only your speed and your spine. When the enemy is nearly upon you,dart to the side 4 times(right,left,right,left). Upon confusing the enemy, turn and run under their legs (make sure your spine is nearly touching their ribs). This will make then bite at you and trip.

Slip Trick- Leap forwards over a rock and let the enemy give chase.As soon as they are close turn around and run underneath the legs. This will give you some time to run to safety.

DEER Edit

Horn Ram- Very simple move. Lower your head and point your antlers towards the enemy. Run and slam into them, picking up your opponent or leaving them on the ground

Buck- This a very useful move. When a predator is on your back or attacking you from the back, simply kick out your legs hard and bash them in the face or throw them off

Agility- This is very useful when running from something. Narrowly miss hitting rocks, trees, bushes, or other objects so that the enemy's aim is thrown off.

Ground Slam- Lift your front hooves up in the air and rear back. Slam them down in front of your enemy, keeping them from harming you in fear of getting hit.

SNAKES Edit

Bite- lash out and nip your opponent with your fangs

Blend- Hide in holes, leaves, or anything that matches your scale color. If found, slither away FAST

Climb- Climb up in the trees where opponents can't get to you, unless its a bird.

Coil- Lash out then coil around the enemy.

Whip- Lash your bottom half at the enemy quickly to cause a quick strike of pain.

Venom Spit- (EXCLUSIVE TO SPITTING COBRA) Open your mouth, and spray venom from your fangs! Try blind the enemy by heading for the eyes.

Intimidate- Easy to do. RATTLERS: Wiggle your tail thing rapidly, and cause a shaking sound to scare opponents. COBRAS: Use those neck flaps of yours! Open them up. (ANY) Hiss like any snake. Try make yourself look bigger.

Dry Bite- A move to use for intimidation and warning. Without pumping in venom, bite the enemy.

Scent- Release a terrible smelling fluid. It really stinks. Use wisely to drive away opponents.

FOXES Edit

Dart- Run around your enemy really fast, delivering blows to your enemy on every side

Slip- When tackled, run out from under your opponent